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CQTFx. tbl. 200x |
Efni þessa blaðs |
Antenna-lifting kitesBy Gudmundur Loeve TF3GL PurposeThe two primary purposes of using kites to support antennas are in my mind:
In the former case, a lightweight wire and a simple parafoil-type kite without struts may be perfectly adequate for 20-40 meter operation using an end-fed half-wave. In the latter case, nothing short of a 1 m 2 (10 square feet) will do for a stable and reliable flight at an acceptable angle. Antenna configurationsObviously, kites lend themselves to supporting vertical antennas of different kinds. It must be pointed out that a vertical doesn't need to be totally vertical; in fact, a 45° sloping wire will have half of its radiation vertical and half horizontal, and in actual practice, the vertical polarization will dominate at low angles over real earth whereas the horizontally polarized energy will primarily radiate upwards. This makes a sloping kite vertical perfectly adequate for both low-angle DX purposes and NVIS communication. On the topic of verticals: Where better to put them than by the sea? And, incidentally, where can you find a steadier and more reliable breeze than precisely there?!
Typical kite antenna configurations: Left, a vertical half-wave. Right, a vertical quarter-wave with two elevated radials at 2 meters off the ground. In the below I will be going a step further than the venerable half-wave vertical, investigating the extreme case of a 160 meter vertical Yagi on the seashore; a feat by no means impossible or out of reach of any ham with three kites. To whet the appetite of potential experimenters, quick – and entirely unoptimized – design in EZNEC shows a whopping 10.5 dBi of gain on 160 meters with a reflector, driven element and director with the lower end 2 meters (7 feet) off the ground, and the closest element 50 meters from the sea (close-spacing (<0.1 wl.) beams were not examined, a certain emphasis was put on achieving a reasonable feedpoint impedance). Even the most stable kite may fly erratically due to eddy currents in the air and the varying force of the wind. This boils down to varying feedpoint impedance for sensitive designs like the end-fed half wave, whereas a quarter-wave with a ground plane would be much more forgiving (but more lossy, as an elevated ground plane vertical would have about 3 dB more overall system losses than the half-wave, but perhaps as little as 1 dB less gain towards the sea provided it is close enough to "see the sea" equally well as the half-wave). Half-wave vertical — EZNEC modellingThe base-case setup is a 78 meters long radiator starting at 2 meters above average ground an pointing upwards at a 45° angle pointing away from the sea, true to the typical nature of sea breezes. Modelling the anticipated performance of this configuration in EZNEC yields some interesting results:
For comparison, my 12.8 meter (42') high vertical ground plane with two radials at 2 meters height yields -3 dBi at a 10°take-off angle on 160 meters, which is more than most non-elevated radial antennas manage to do, but still a tantalizing 12.5 dB down from the seaside Kite Yagi – and what's more, the radiation from the seaside Yagi peaks at 4° take-off angle, which leads to about 7 dB lower path loss plus reflection attenuation at 8000 kilometres (night-time conditions), according to a rough calculation. DX from the seaside Kite Yagi should be a breeze, with up to 20 dB better performance than even an efficient ground plane vertical. I can't wait to try it: It would be like running 10,000 watts instead of my regular 100!
Performance of the Kite Yagi: 10.5 dBi at a DX-friendly 4° take-off angle, and may still be improved upon.
Close-up of the antenna base, fed against my car (no, it's not exploding, this is EZNEC's way of showing currents). Being a half-wave, the antennta needs very little counterpoise. |
Kite typesAccording to brief research, box kites of various types have traditionally been used for lift. These kites are usually either trilateral or quadrilateral boxes with or without fins for increased stability and lift in lower winds. Some kites are made with two sets of boxes and fins, merged into a single construction.
Rigid box-type lifting kites (from left): Traditional box kite, Cody box kite, French military kite (single), French military kite (double), delta Conyne. Antenna wire and kite linesThe airborne ham has a choice of either using his antenna wire as a kite line or hanging the antenna wire from the kite somehow. In the former case, the line obviously needs to be strong and pliable, yet conductive. In the latter case, traditional kite line of the correct specifications will do, and almost any kind of antenna wire can be hung passively from the kite. Always provided, of course, that the kite has enough lift. I have chosen to have the kite line do double duty as antenna wire. There are multiple sources for such wire, ranging from electrical fence products to products that are specifically sold as antenna line (such as the MFJ Enterprises product #18D120 3/32" polyester line with a bare-copper wire mesh around it, measured DC resistance is 46 m?/m).
Polyester line with copper webbing. TuningI have chosen to pre-tune my 160 m half-waves at the feedpoint with a simple L-circuit tuner, plugging a short jump lead with a banana plug on the tuner, and connecting to a loop at the end of the driven element with a crocodile clip. From the feedpoint tuner I run a short coax to the autotuner in my car (also an L cirquit), where fine tuning takes place automatically. My setup is really simple: An Icom IC-7000 and an LDG AT-7000 autotuner (L circuit for tuning range and low loss), plus a small MFJ manual L-circuit tuner to pre-tune the antenna at the feedpoint.
Grounding: Very, very important
Grounding can be accomplished with using a shunt 10 kohm resistor to ground (100 kohm for smaller antennas), with an expected current of 100-1000 uA DC during rain. A better method may be to use an inductor choke to provide a direct DC path to ground (e.g. 10 windings through a small twin-bead ferrite, or a few more through a small ferrite toroid), if measured SWR doesn't change, you're on the right track with the number of windings – irrespective of whether you're measuring into the antenna in situ or a dummy load at home. In all cases, the DC grounding wire should be attached to the centre conductor on the station side of the tuner, to a grounding rod with adequate DC resistance. (My thanks to TF3DX for the grounding information.) AttachmentsThe below files are intended for on-going experimentation.
A special note should be made on the files that include the complete model of a car: This model is a 700+ segment reconstruction of a 4WD vehicle, as true to the NEC guidelines for modeling solid planes as possible, and including side and bottom surfaces to realistically represent ground-capacitance. |











